Best Director in Literature Department of Huayu

Chapter 60 Suzhou Embroidery and Shawls

Beijing, 18th floor of Kuntai International Building.

When Lin Ruiyang received Luo Ge's call, the evening rush hour on Chaoyangmenwai Street outside his window was still going on.

Roger just said three things on the phone.

First, Universal Pictures has officially signed a waiver of priority rights statement, a week earlier than expected.

Second, Craig Bowden and Melissa Warlake signed the copyright transfer agreement in Austin this morning, and legally speaking, Dallas Buyers Club is now in his hands.

Third, Roger spoke noticeably slower when recounting this than the previous two incidents—"Matthew McConaughey's agent called me three times this afternoon to ask about your schedule. He said his client wants to see you."

"What did you reply?"

"I told you you're not in Los Angeles right now, and your return date is uncertain." Roger paused on the other end of the line.

"Lin, do you want me to tell the truth, or tell you what you want to hear?"

"truth."

McConaughey is serious. It's not the kind of tentative approach where I say I have a friend who's interested in the project, but the kind of serious approach where I'd sit here and wait no matter what the terms are.

In 2005, a Hollywood actor at the peak of his commercial value was willing to lower himself to seek out an independent film script that seemed destined to lose money. This in itself shows that the actor himself felt the danger of falling from grace.

Lin Ruiyang rubbed his slightly tired temples. Matthew McConaughey's persistence was both expected and unexpected.

"Tell him," Lin Ruiyang said, "we'll talk about it when I get to Los Angeles."

"When are you going?"

"Not too long, but not now."

After dealing with the trivial matters in Los Angeles, Lin Ruiyang leaned back in his chair, his thoughts involuntarily returning to the phone call he had made two days earlier.

That was a call from Han Sanping himself.

He answered the phone, but before he could even speak, Han Sanping's voice came through the receiver.

"Ruiyang, we've received a reply from Suzhou."

"Regarding the Suzhou embroidery, I had someone contact Ms. Yao Jianping. She is an inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage of Suzhou embroidery and has been promoting Suzhou embroidery to enter the international haute couture circle in recent years. Several established European workshops have indeed hired embroiderers from her."

However, she was rather cautious about using Suzhou embroidery in film props. It wasn't that she disagreed, but she wanted to discuss it with you in person.

"Shall we talk in person?"

"Her exact words were, 'I want to see if this director truly understands Suzhou embroidery, or if he just wants to use the name to attach a cultural label.'"

"So I've arranged for you two to meet at her studio in Suzhou. When are you free?"

Lin Ruiyang glanced at the calendar hanging on the wall; filming for "The Devil Wears Prada" might start in July.

"I'll call and ask them over there this weekend."

Han Sanping responded and then said, "You handle the negotiations yourself; I'm just here to make the connection," before hanging up.

Saturday, Suzhou.

Lin Ruiyang, carrying a simple shoulder bag, boarded the bus bound for Zhenhu.

Zhenhu is the birthplace of Suzhou embroidery. The air here seems to carry the moisture from the Taihu Lake, and embroidery shops can be seen everywhere on both sides of the street.

Yao Jianping's studio is located deep in a quiet street in Zhenhu. With white walls and black tiles, the garden-style scenery exudes the tranquility of a deep courtyard.

Inside, only a few young girls sat in front of embroidery frames in the corridor, their fingers moving nimbly, the silk threads reflecting a watery luster in the sunlight.

"Director Lin, this way please."

A middle-aged woman wearing a dark green cheongsam stepped out from behind the screen. Her steps were very light and silent.

"Teacher Yao, I apologize for disturbing you," Lin Ruiyang said politely.

Yao Jianping didn't show much enthusiasm. She invited Lin Ruiyang to sit down in the tea room next to the courtyard and personally poured him a cup of Biluochun tea.

"Although Mr. Han praised you for a long time on the phone, please forgive me for saying this upfront: Suzhou embroidery is a craft that takes time to complete."

If Director Lin only wants to use a few screens as backdrops in the movie, or have actors wear our clothes and pose for a few times as a promotional gimmick, then after we finish our tea, you can go to the embroidery shops on the street. There are many machine-made imitations there, and the effect is no worse than the real thing.”

These words were quite impolite, even carrying a hint of arrogance towards the rival artist.

Lin Ruiyang put down his teacup, not in a hurry to express his opinion.

"Teacher Yao, what do you consider to be luxury goods?"

Yao Jianping raised an eyebrow: "That's a topic you people in the entertainment and fashion circles love to talk about. All I know is that splitting a single thread into one-sixteenth or even one-sixtieth of its original length, and having someone sit in front of the embroidery frame for half a year, that's called craftsmanship."

"If you can't make a living with your craft, even the best things will only end up in a museum."

"Teacher Yao, over the years you've taken embroiderers to Europe for exhibitions, supplied samples to established workshops, sent catalogs to haute couture designers, and so on. You've been doing the same thing: "

Let Suzhou embroidery go global. But how much of that Suzhou embroidery is remembered? And how much is simply exhibited, seen by tourists, and then forgotten?

Yao Jianping did not refute.

Why have haute couture brands like Chanel and Fendi been able to survive? It's not because their craftsmanship is better than Suzhou embroidery. It's because they operate according to market rules, enhancing their brand image while employing a series of methods to get a small group of people willing to pay.

Wearing a haute couture gown on the Oscars red carpet makes women all over the world want it the next day. Suzhou embroidery doesn't lack skill; it lacks opportunities for ordinary people to see and desire it.

"Although I made a commercial film, with its global distribution, it will reach at least several million viewers. They won't go to the cinema to see Suzhou embroidery, but they will remember the special shawl in the film."

They'll search for the brand of that shawl, and investigate what kind of fabric gave it that sheen. Once they find Suzhou, Zhenhu, and your name, the seed of knowledge has been planted. A seed is planted, and when it sprouts, Suzhou embroidery will no longer be just a museum exhibit.

Yao Jianping was silent for a moment: "What kind of shawl do you want?"

"In the style of ink wash painting, distant mountains and mist are embroidered with black, white and gray silk threads."

(Image from the show)

Yao Jianping nodded.

"And the size?"

"Big enough to drape over your shoulders. Not too big, but it needs to drape well."

She made a mental estimate and then said, "I'll personally supervise the embroidery; it will take at most three months."

"Three months, the timing is just right."

Lin Ruiyang picked up the cup of Biluochun tea, which had already cooled down, and took a sip. Filming started in July, and the climax scenes were scheduled to begin in September.

Yao Jianping looked at him, the protectiveness she once felt towards her fellow artist gradually replaced by a calm scrutiny of her partner:

"Director Lin, you just said that's called brand tone. But I have to remind you, no matter how good something is, if it's not filmed well, it'll just be a mess of threads on the screen."

Suzhou embroidery emphasizes "flatness, evenness, fineness, density, harmony, luster, smoothness, and evenness," especially the word "luster," where the refraction of the silk threads creates different moods under different lights.

"I promise I won't let you down," Lin Ruiyang said firmly.